Tuesday, 18 June 2013

Week nine - into La Belle France


Crossing Provence into Languedoc-Roussillon
Trip miles 2,906


It was a long-planned Sunday journey into France, but we hadn’t counted on the lateness of the French Mothers’ Day and the unexpected and comparatively expensive toll roads were busy. No matter, it was a joy to be back in the South of France, the scenes of our first journeys in Bertha and so many happy memories.

La Promenade des Anglais, Nice

Les Arcs hillside Templar town
It was a high blue sky morning and the picturesque Esterel was lush green and dewy in the newly, but finally arrived, late spring. Our 90 mile drive brought us once more to a favourite stop, Les Arcs, just within Provence. The hillside Knights Templar town had completed the renovations we had previously seen in 2010 but had meanwhile suffered a massive sinkhole which revealed a 17th century road bridge on top of a Roman waterway. Barricaded off behind the square’s bandstand it was proving an unlikely attraction.


Our winding walk up to the pinnacle of the hillside town once again revealed a magical and warmed stone built setting, with innumerable basking cats under an increasingly hot sun.
 
Living inside the walls at Les Arcs

We meandered down the cobbled streets and then cycled up and out of town in search of Domaine Valette in whose busy vineyards looking back to the Templar towers we had the pleasure of meeting the estate’s daughter who happily showed us the cellars and the new varietals. A little before noon and we had chosen a delicious Provencal Rose which we later matched against a touchingly funny wine tasting back at our aire, wine makers named Les Archers. The highly amused, small and industrious French lady hostellier enjoyed serving us various degustation whilst ignoring the poe-faced and critical sampling Parisian chap alongside us. 
We left the cave with much bon hommie!
 
Tending to the vines at Domaine Valette

After an enjoyable couple of days we moved onto Comps, a Rhone riverside town with a busy aire that is tucked behind the flood defence walls and reached through the town’s bullring – the first we have driven Bertha through! Already half full when we arrived, the afternoon’s stormy showers flooded the sandy floor of the aire and brought more than 20 vans in seeking shelter. It was a complicated ballet of French grumpiness, German ruthlessness, Dutch leniency and English good humour as we all tried to leave the next morning!

Bertha in the bullring aire, safely tucked behind the flood defence walls