The next day as rain fell we set off on the morning train
to explore nearby Gengenbach. We had time for strong coffee from the kiosk on
the station platform which was busy selling cigarettes, newspapers and beers to
local workers. It was 9.40am.
The sleek and spotless train arrived and left acutely on
time and we enjoyed comfortable seats with plenty of legroom and a picture
window for the views. For two jaded Southern rail travellers, it was a treat!
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| Gengenbach Rathaus |
Gengenbach is a handsome walled fortress town which prospered in the middle ages and subsequently survived three devastating town fires, one siege, the thirty years war and invasion by a French king.
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| Benedictine Abbey |
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| The 15th century Holzofen bakery |
We wandered its winding streets and alleys admiring the
Benedictine Abbey and gardens (helping ourselves to just a few fresh herbs from
the pretty ‘krautern garten’) the large patrician houses, ornate fountains and
squares and the many watchtowers guarding the centre and looking out across the
Kinzigtal landscape.
We bought Black Forest ham filled rolls ‘shinkel brot’
from the town’s historic wood-fired bread oven which has fuelled the locals
since 1485 and continues to be the bakery of choice, judging by the queue that
formed as lunchtime approached.
Climbing up the steep vineyards to Jacob’s Kappelle, a
famed stop on the old pilgrimage route of Santiago de Compostella, we made
friends with a pretty cat and enjoyed the far-reaching views across the green
and fertile valley.
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| Gengenbach view from the vineyards |
Back in town we found a winstub where we perched outside
on a bench undercover from the rains. A calamitous waitress made our quick
snack of wurst salad and baked fresh flammenkuchen a hilarious affair which
came to a sudden end with the arrival of a grumpy German tour group. We were
bustled to finish our meal as they squatted on our bench and declared flatly
‘nein’ to our invitation to chat.
The mood lightened after the waitress confused their
drinks order and the grumpier women ended up with large pints of Pils which
they happily guzzled. Amused, we headed to the town’s impressive church to see
the Romanesque and richly painted interior in reds, blues and golds.
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| Gengenbach view from Offenburger Tor |
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| Through the Black Forest |
Staying on the train back through Oberkirch we travelled
high up into the forest to the end of the line at Bad Griesbach.
Along the way
we admired the large timber houses that dotted the landscape in pastures carved
out of the forest. Most sported solar panels on their roofs and all had
impressive wood piles, often housed in purpose built barns. Any one of the wood
barns would be perfect as a home for Bertha!
Bad Griesbach is a ski and hiking resort and we had half
an hour to find a coffee and explore the one main street before the train left
the station. We walked up the road which was lined with guest houses and found
the one business open that afternoon, a bakery. We amused the smiling and
elderly shopkeeper by buying hot coffee and fresh eggs from her for the next
morning’s breakfast. She waved us cheerily goodbye chuckling about ‘frische eier
fur fruhstuck in Oberkirch’.
